“There’s never a direct source or specific point of inspiration—it’s about feeling?now,” said backstage this afternoon, having just presented his fall collection under the vast entry atrium of Central Saint Martins’ King’s Cross campus. There were plenty of details that felt of the moment: superhigh necks (they’re everywhere this season!) on thick (but not frumpy) knit jumpers, the easy swing of a loose trouser, even the outsize buttons on a sleeveless top with the slightest peplum flair.
What has consistently proven, however, is that he knows how to deliver a dressing-room staple imbued with a jab of English quirk; it’s what keeps his clients coming back for more. For fall, that rang particularly true with his outerwear, from look one’s muted?plaid?shin-grazing coat to football-laced anoraks to a bigger-than-big shearling and leather duffle in?fromage?yellow. “Beefy fabrics,” said Smith, “very cozy.” It was also?satisfying to see a long line throughout, especially so on a grayish?square-motif?sweater?with lengthened sleeves and stitching at the sternum; to this writer, it recalled a subtle mirroring of the Union Jack flag. “It’s really about clothes that you can add to your wardrobe, that you can supplement your wardrobe with,” concluded?the designer. No doubt many a?customer’s closet will be a good deal more?stocked come fall deliveries.
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