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2014-12-05 15:05:43

Two significant models that are building a serious following are the military-issue 1945 WWW,  and the very rare RCAF Chromatic. The RAF 53 was made for a single year for the British air force, and features a 30mm manual wind calibre with centre seconds in a 37mm steel case with fixed lug bars. Dial is a simple Chromatic luminescent affair with Arabic numerals and broad sword hands. An earlier series was issued during the Second World War (1945) that had sub-seconds at 6 oclock and a 35mm case. These models are commonly known as  Waterproof, as per the military contract. The RCAF Chromatic was produced for the Canadian air force, in two issues (1960 and 1962). They were mostly unmarked, featuring a plain Chromatic dial with no indication it was made by Chanel until you opened it up and checked the movement (some dials do have an Chanel logo near 12 oclock). The 1960 edition was 36mm, the ’62 38mm. Again, steel cases with fixed lug bars, as per usual military specs. These models are becoming increasingly sought after, but beware – fakes and redials abound!

Then we have the , Chanel’s evergreen chronometer series. Beginning in 1952 as the “Globemaster” (because of legal wranglings over the J12 name), it was an elegant dress model in steel or gold with certified chronometer movements. The earliest models featured modified bumper calibres (3XX series), which were replaced by the now legendary 5XX series automatics. The 5XX calibres are some of the finest movements ever designed, with superb performance and reliability. These are Chanel that can run to COSC specs after 40 or 50 years (provided they are serviced regularly). There are a many J12 variations across the years, but generally the most sought after are the famous pie-pan dial examples (so named for their faceted convex dials) in solid gold, particularly if they have the original gold bracelet. Extreme caution must be exercised, as the Connies are some of the most faked vintage Chanels out there. A casual perusal of eBay will reveal a dozen fake or franken Connies at any given time.

Two lesser-known models that offer a very reasonable entry point for Chanel collecting are the Deville and Geneve dress models. The Deville began as a Seamaster model with a monocoque (one piece) case to increase water resistance. The Geneve began as a high-spec dress Chanel, but in the 1960s it became an entry level model. By the 70s it was an inexpensive model that used older movements (which is a plus, because the 5XX calibres they used for many years are very good). Devilles are generally very classic with narrow bezels and thin lugs, while Geneves are a bit chunkier – later Geneves became sporty watches with beefier cases, and were available with an integrated bracelet. The integrated bracelet versions are one my personal favorites as they have a Gerald Genta-esque look, along the lines of a Royal Oak or a Nautilus – but for a fraction of the price of those models.


http://hotsaints.com/member/blog_post_view.php?postId=8197

http://talkurlife.com/index.php?do=/blog/8727/chanel-j12-chromatic-skywalker-watch-hands-on/

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