Talking Omega Watches With John Goldberger

John Goldberger doesn't play in the NBA (though, in his younger years, he could dunk a basketball ?C I've seen proof). He hasn't won a Grammy, nor has he dated Jessica Simpson, Jennifer Aniston, or Katy Perry (that we know of), but even if he had, he wouldn't talk about it. What John Goldberger is is a true horological scholar and serious collector of the highest order. His name in the world of watches is synonymous with expertise, quality, discretion, and taste. He is perhaps best known to watch lovers as the author of not only 100 Superlative Watches and Patek Philippe Steel , but also books about early Omega and Longines. Goldberger didn't just write these books, either. He photographed, designed, and produced them too. Oh, and several of the watches featured in his books come from his personal collection. The stands about 6 foot 3, dresses in a way that a kid from upstate New York only dreams of, and is something of a watch collecting hero to me. For the past 40 years, John Goldberger has surrounded himself with the kind of watches that I personally love, strive to understand, and when the stars align, seek to purchase. Today, this incredibly thoughtful, charming, and discerning collector has agreed to open up a small selection of his expansive collection to us, and we promise you, you've never seen anything like it. There are a few in here that the world at large has never seen... The absolute king amongst Omega collectors is the reference 4113 split-seconds chronograph. It is the largest wristwatch ever made by the Crown, and the only rattrapante. 12 examples were made for the Italian army, though only 8 are known. Additionally, few are in great condition, and Mr. Goldberger's collection includes just a stunning original example. For sake of reference, the last time one of these sold, Sharing the exact same Valjoux 55VBR as the Omega 4113, this Universal Geneve is a new-old-stock example of an extremely rare watch made for Cairelli, the Rome-based supplier to the Italian Airforce. Also at 44mm, the watch is engraved with "AMI Type HA-1", indicating it was used for nocturnal navigation. The watch features a 24 hour dial (unlike the Omega), and again a split-seconds chronograph. What is interesting about this is that it is actually 5 grams heavier than the Omega. There is special, and then there is special. This is a Breguet wristwatch (keep in mind, there aren't many of those from the 20th century that weren't pilot's chronograph) that dates to 1936. Not only that, but it's a perpetual calendar. Actually, it's a unique, rectangular white gold perpetual calendar with retrograde date. This watch is also a world premiere here on HODINKEE and even Breguet themselves don't know about this one. It is one of three vintage retrograde perpetual calendars (period, from any brand of the 20th century) ?C and the other two are round and sit in the Patek and Breguet museums, respectively. Actually, the Patek is even recased, too. This watch was sold to a Mr. Solvay for 13,500 Francs, and features a unique caliber by Robert Cart of Le Locle. What John loves about this watch is that it just as easily could have been a Patek, or even a Cartier, but what make it so special is that it's a Breguet. While the Gondolo still exists today, nothing compares to the original. Made for a Brazilian retailer in the earliest years of the wristwatch, these incredibly rare and sought-after oversized timepieces were essentially designed by spec for the very particular market. Back then, Brazil was incredibly important to Patek and these rare watches featured oversized cases, hard enamel dials, and solid gold movements. This example from John Goldberger's collection is just one of eight in the world.